You must be wondering where to visit after lockdown. Close to fourteen months ago we were in Jinja with friends, rafting close to the source of the legendary Nile with a local adventure company. By April we would have completed yet another escapade, but COVID-19 happened. It’s been a turbulent few months, but the good news is the the dust is settling and once the restrictions are eased we will revisit some favorite spots and explore the unknown lands that we always hoped to visit.

There are particular retreats that have influenced our paths to wander for so many years. Others remain as fresh as fresh can be. Some locally owned and run, others bring an unrivaled experience from foreign lands.

Whether new or old, whether locally managed or foreign-owned, as we wait for the COVID-19 pandemic to phase out and the lockdown to ease, it’s worth dreaming of the holiday spots that we hope to visit when it’s safe to board a plane or hit the road again.

For the record, none of these properties paid to be advertised. This is purely a recommendation based on my personal experiences,  those of my most experienced nomadic friends, and game changers in the tourism sector who have sent satisfied customers to these little paradises time and again.

In no particular order, here are 50 incredible Ugandan safari escapes for you to visit after lockdown.

Wild Waters Lodge – Kalagala Island

The lodge is in a different world. Wild Waters Lodge is no stranger to travel-lists and should be on your list of spots to visit soon. Accessible only by boat, the lodge is located at a breathtaking spot (roughly six hectares) on a private island paradise called Kalagala; and wrapped between trees. This location is kept awake by the constant sounds of thundering rapids on the majestic River Nile. The Lemala Family who own and run this retreat have been working hard behind the scenes to prepare for when the guests return; they shared on their Facebook a few days ago. I bet it will be lovelier for returning and new guests.

Ndali Lodge – Kabarole (Western Uganda)

Ndali has that luxurious, colonial-vibe, run by third-generation owners. It rests at the edge of the stunning Lake Nyinambuga, a mesmerizing ridgetop location. From here, views of the Rwenzori ranges are to behold. Definitely an awesome spot to checkout for someone looking for where to go after lockdown.

Twin Lake Safari Lodge – Bunyaruguru

I love the rooms at Twin Lake Safari Lodge, the rustic bathrooms in particular. Needless to say that at its elevated location in the beautiful surroundings of the Bunyaruguru great crater you will enjoy some of the clearest views of the wild plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park. The animals come to the lodge, but not too close that you should be afraid. When I slept here, in the mornings I could spot elephants in the plains below. The lodge is owned by the just-retired Chief Justice of Uganda, Bart Magunda Katureebe, and I was fortunate to sleep in his room, on his bed (monkey emojis) when I visited. Friendly staff, very good food. Put this on your wish-list as you plan where to go after lockdown.

Nile Safari Lodge – Murchison Falls National Park

This is effortlessly one of Uganda’s finest lodges today. The lodge was recently renovated and launched. Let’s just say everything is new, everything is out of this world. If your plan is to have a room with a view, this is it! They have those wild outside showers that bring you closer to the hippos yet still safe from leopards. This high-end property runs on green energy. All guests enjoy a private terrace facing the mighty waters of River Nile. Almost everything is available from an infinity pool to WiFi and a delicious ala-carte menu. This one is on my list and I highly recommend you visit sometime soon.

Ishasha Wilderness Camp – Queen Elizabeth National Park

Set next to Ntungwe River, Ishasha Wilderness Camp is an idyllic retreat for people who truly enjoy the wilderness. Being within the park the wildlife is free to also pass through the camp and elephants can be seen bathing in the river, buffalo enjoy grazing, and resident troops of Black-and-White Colobus and vervet monkeys are frequently viewed. If you are lucky, George, the lone hippo, can also be seen beside the camp. The Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park is popular for its tree-climbing lions and sleeping at this Wilderness Camp offers an opportunity to sight these wonders of Africa.

Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge

This locally owned lodge, formerly Nkuringo Gorilla Camp, has evolved over the years from a campsite in 2007 to fully-fledged award-winning lodge. All rooms are designed to pamper every guest. The entire lodge features stunning works of art from this region and beyond. At its location adjacent to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, the lodge is the ideal spot for tracking mountain gorillas in the Nkuringo sector. The mountain gorillas have been giving birth to new babies and this could inspire your list of where to go after lockdown. The views from your room are rewarding!

Rwakobo Rock – Lake Mburo National Park

This property is located outside the national park, but its eco-lodging setup makes you forget you aren’t inside Lake Mburo’s enclosures. The family-owned lodge is perched on a rocky outcrop that overlooks Lake Mburo, National Park. Rwakobo rock with its many rooms is a place of respite. An incredible place to send stress packing. Check their website for activities on offer including bike safaris, cultural walks, and game drive and walk combos.

Sipi River Lodge

This is a real retreat set in beautiful gardens with porch rockers and a creek-side trail to the second waterfall. Their on-site restaurant serves some of your best local and continental cuisine using ingredients sourced from their private vegetable garden. The restaurant also welcomes walk-in guests for espresso drinks and homemade meals. You are guaranteed a nice stay in one of the most picturesque parts of Uganda. Sipi River Lodge’s location in the foothills of Mount Elgon, famous for three spectacular waterfalls, is home to an incredible number of bird species, some of the best Arabica coffee in the world, and magical sunsets. Stay here if you are visiting Sipi Falls.

Kyambura Gorge Lodge – Rubirizi

This eclectic safari lodge has been converted from an old coffee store to create a breathtakingly beautiful space. The lodge is located on the edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park with sweeping views of the rolling savanna, the distant mountains of the moon, and the sunken Kyambura Gorge that shelters the rare chimpanzees. The stylish bandas also have a contemporary theme with the accent on local artifacts re-imagined in a new context. Kyambura is owned and managed by the Volcanoes group of lodges and is effortlessly one of the finest properties. A good place for a treat after the lockdown

Semliki Safari Lodge – Semliki Wildlife Reserve

Staying at Semliki is like stepping back in time. It evokes the spirit of the old explorers, it piques curiosity and inspires discovery. Semliki is secluded and intimate. With a maximum of 18 guests, they promise excellent service and attention to detail…and an unforgettable experience. Guests at Semliki stay in golden-hued tents with gleaming hardwood floors. Staying under canvas is one of the most romantic and exciting things to do in on safari in Africa. My most threatening but also best wild elephant encounter was in this place. I hope to visit again soon… The lodge is owned and managed by the Wildplaces Africa group.

Adere Safari Lodge – Kidepo Valley Natioal Park

This newly launched lodge is located on the boundary of the remote and virgin Kidepo Valley National Park. Locally owned and run, Adere features a modern-traditional vibe hundreds of miles from the capital city, Kampala. Enjoy a broad range of activities, and retire to Adere’s comfortable cottages, at the end of each day. The views of the wild Kidepo plains from Adere throughout the day change with the weather but are always beautiful. Friendly staff, great food, in a lovely location.

Emburara Fam Lodge

Waking up to sounds of mooing cows and witnessing early chores by herdsmen is a lot more interesting than you may underestimate. Emburara Farm Lodge is a high-end Eco-luxury property promoting cultural tourism and conservation of flora and fauna in a fresh, serene and relaxed farm environment.  The lodge is great for cultural experiences, family stays, honeymoon, business meetings, and retreats, including individual holidays. The architecture alone will blow you away. They definitely put in the work and had the best hands in putting this property together. I LOVE it!

Turaco Treetops – Kibale

Turaco Treetops is Kibale Forest’s newest semi-luxe lodge. Turaco Treetops is the place to go on a chimpanzee trekking holiday, share tasty meals, laugh, read a book near their fireplace, learn about nature, play a game, or take a dip in their refreshing pool. And not to forget: enjoy that well-deserved hot shower and comfortable beds that help you get ready for a new day of exploration in the Kibale Forest region. The lodge is owned my people with years of experience in the tourism and safari business.

Chobe Safari Lodge – Murchison Falls National Park

This one is no stranger to tourism publications. Located in the Murchison Falls National Park, this Five Star lodge is undoubtedly the gem in Uganda’s crown of tourism destinations. The breathtaking panoramic views, coupled with the sounds of the River Nile’s magnificent rapids, sets the scene for an adventure that will impress even the most discerning of visitors. Two years ago, American Rapper and Superstar, Kanye West stayed here with his wife and daughter, like to endorse this as a place worth keeping on your list of places to visit and revisit. Chobe is one of the properties under the Marasa Holdings, a chain of lodges and resorts in the East African region.

Crater Safari Lodge – Kibale

This is one of Uganda’s most prized lodges, locally owned and in an ideal setting. If you’re after a once-in-a-lifetime great-ape encounter that won’t break the bank, head to the enchanting Kibale Forest National Park in Uganda and spend magical moments with one of the planet’s most fascinating primate, the chimpanzee. Crater Safari Lodge that is located adjacent to the park is the perfect spot to begin your journey. Its location on the edge of an extinct crater lake presents many more fun activities for visitors to enjoy including canoeing, community visits, hikes, kayaking, etc.

The Rainforest Lodge – Mabira Forest

The Rainforest Lodge is located between Kampala and Jinja making this ‘nearby yet far away lodge’ a favorite among both residents and foreign tourists. Set within Mabira Forest, Uganda’s second-largest forest, you find yourself surrounded by nature’s beauty. The forest is home to 312 species of trees, 315 species of birds, 218 Butterfly species, and 23 small mammal species.

Pakuba Safari Lodge – Murchison Falls National Park

The sun rose beautifully that one Saturday morning slowly radiating almost all the corners of the 3,893 sqkm protected area that is Murchison Falls National Park. At the bottom of my heart, I had this feeling of confidence that I could look forward to an awesome day and I wasn’t disappointed. We slept at Pakuba Safari Lodge and this right here is still one of my favorite escapes. The lodge is nestled on the Eastern Bank of the Albert Nile offering panoramic views of the mighty River Nile, sweeping vistas of the surrounding riverine forest below and the captivating surrounding wilderness where travelers get the chance to sight Giraffes, Elephants, Antelopes and occasionally Leopards that pay regular visits to the lodge. This above everything stoked me. The fact that you can just be driving away from the lodge and right there is a lion, elephant or leopard. Definitely a place to revisit

Kasenyi Safari Camp – Queen Elizabeth National Park

Phillip welcomes you with an American-Ugandan accent before he quickly switches to luganda (vernacular) if you are from these lands, just to make you feel more at home. From the main lodge area, you can enjoy views of the salt lake below. The sunrises every day are a thing to wake up to. Your butler will walk you to your room with one of Phillip’s many cats escorting you, and later in the night, you may be awakened by the actual true cats of this place, the lions. The lodge has a resident lion pride which will sometimes camp under your luxurious safari tent or roar in the night. A swimming pool is on the cards.

Gorilla Heights Lodge – Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

This is the newest addition to the list of luxury properties in the Bwindi-mountain gorilla area. The thrilling safari experience of trekking Uganda’s Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest beckons for an exclusive sanctuary for you to retreat. Gorilla Heights Lodge sits on the axis of Nkuringo hill, offering lavish blends of the breathtaking sights of a rolling forest canopy and jagged mountain ranges. The rooms have been delicately woven with modern architecture and African design to create the ultimate blend of luxury. Everything is extravagantly planned to spoil you including the heated pool that will warm you up even on the chilliest of days.

Elephant Plains Lodge

This is the freshest baby in Uganda Lodges’ collection of safari retreats; undoubtedly the finest of them all. Perched 941 meters above sea level, high upon the western escarpment of the Albertine rift in the northeastern part of the Queen Elizabeth National Park, Elephant Plains lodge offers panoramic views stretching for miles over the huge open grasslands to lake George. only 2 minutes to the park gate, nowhere else here can you sleep closer to the equator with views of the equator monument visible from all around the lodge. Nestled next to beautiful lake Kikorongo this is where the open plains merge into the crystal waters and seeing large numbers of Elephants coming to drink from the water makes sense of the lodge’s name.

Papaya Lake Lodge

This lodge is surrounded by the lush, evergreen landscapes of the Ugandan Great Crater Lakes region, set between two extinct volcanoes, nestled against the turquoise waters of the Lyantonde and Kifuruka lakes and with exhilarating views towards the majestic Rwenzori Mountain Range. The lodge is close to Kibale Forest National Park, making it one of many splendid retreats to stay during a Chimpanzee safari. Its oasis of nine luxurious cottages, a restaurant, and a beautiful swimming pool with a scenic terrace reflect the passion that the owners had in setting things up. Papaya’s European owners wish you’ll visit soon, I bet they can’t wait to show you around this beautiful part of western Uganda.

Buffalo Safari Lodge – Queen Elizabeth National Park

Buffalo Safari Lodge is located next to Queen Elizabeth Park, near the magical Kazinga channel. The lodge has both standard and deluxe cottages, a total of 17 rooms making it the ideal place for large groups of 20 guests or more. Buffalo Lodge has world-class and experienced staff, a fully stocked bar and restaurant, with a lounge that gives guests and visitors a spectacular view of Queen Elizabeth park nearby, and Lakes Edward and George. A great place to visit or revisit.

Sanctuary Retreats Gorilla Safari Camp

This one is for the large pockets. A luxury property owned and managed by internationally famed hospitality brand, Sanctuary Retreats. The lodge is located in the northern sector of Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Ecologically respectful, contemporary-yet-classic in style, Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp blends in sensitively with the dramatic African mountain landscape and, situated uniquely inside the national park, you are only minutes away from the start of your gorilla trekking adventure.

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

Across the forest in the southerly sector of Nkuringo (Bwindi Impenetrable National Park) sits one of the country’s coolest heavens, the bespoke Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge. Picture this: You are sitting up on a ridge, above the clouds, looking across to the Virunga volcanoes. Behind you is the primordial, mysterious and impenetrable forest that is Bwindi. As you sit there, drinking your chilled wine, or your freshly brewed coffee, or your freshly squeezed juice you smile. You smile because you know that your personal butler is lighting the fire in your cottage and setting out your freshly laundered clothes. In the kitchen a gorgeous meal is being prepared, and tomorrow after breakfast you will walk from the lodge to the Nkuringo trailhead and track the last few surviving mountain gorillas. Purely heavenly!

Kidepo Savanna Lodge

Everyone that has slept here narrates the ordeal of lions roaring outside the tent. It’s not just the king of the jungle that visits, many more wildlife species love to share the space with tourists. This is for my people that love the wild , this is for my people that love a distant place where the only sounds are those of Africa’s safari celebrities. Kidepo Savanna Lodge rests on the boundary of Kidepo Valley National Park, delivering excellent value. The lodge is inspired by the savanna surroundings, the grasslands, rocky outcrops, and by the Karamojong, the tribe with their typical manyattas and colorful blankets.

Elephant Hab Lodge – Queen Elizabeth National Park

At the shoulders of the famous Kyambura Gorge, Elephant Hab Lodge offers visitors an unforgettable experience with its brilliant views of the savannah plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park. When you visit, you will be able to take part in remarkable activities like nature walks and game drives, chimpanzee tracking, and the rich stories told by the locals are something to look forward to.

You can find more about Elephant Hab Lodge details here

Ishasha Jungle Lodge – Queen Elizabeth National Park

In the less popular, but highly rewarding southerly sector of Queen Elizabeth National park, you’ll find this awesome retreat. You have heard the stories of tree-climbing lions, but there’s more than that to see.  Ishasha Jungle Lodge is surrounded by riparian forest vegetation and acacia Savannah. It is is a small, intimate eco-friendly lodge, and made entirely from locally-sourced materials and African art. Its raised en-suite wooden deck cottages, spacious rooms and bathroom, all finished with canvas will be great spots to pull out your camera to capture the moment to share with friends and family.

Mahogany Springs – Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

This private retreat is on the edge of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, one of the spots on my bucketlist. My friends who have visited describe it as luxurious enough to be extremely comfortable, yet still, retain enough rough edges to give you that wild jungle spirit of adventure. The rooms are very nice and clean. The staff are extremely helpful, convivial, and will go out of their way to make you comfortable.

Paraa Safari Lodge – Murchison Falls National Park

Perhaps I should mention that I’m attracted to terrifying, mysterious, precarious things. THINGS, not people. I’ve also narrowed it down recently to places. And islands are some of them. Once, when I’d just left a very serene island, (Bussi Island), my boat guy was arrested for attempted murder and robbery. The other time, when I was at an island somewhere in Mayuge district, Uganda, I was told that sometimes, they hide dead bodies among passengers on the boats. But once you love travel, it doesn’t matter what comes with it. And somehow, islands keep luring me.

So this one time I’m in Kampala, bored to death. A friend is visiting from Muenster, Germany, and she wants to go somewhere quiet. We decide to go for a boat ride. We head down to Gaba and look at the boats. If you’ve been to that landing site, then you know that it proliferates the hygiene issues of Kampala. So to escape from it all, we grab the next boat heading to where? None of us knows. Later I learn that our destination is Bule Island, and it’s only twenty minutes away from Gaba. It costs only 2k on the boat. Cargo, set. Passengers, set. These identification jackets they like to call life jackets, set. My friend Johanna has her camera, I have my phone and we both have a few notes in our pockets. It’s supposed to be a random getaway, stress-free and baggage-free.

The beauty of travelling on a small boat is that you feel the waves as they sway the little boat around, and you can touch the water as the boat sprints forward. As the engine growls, Gabba and Kampala slowly recede to our backs. It’s always refreshing to go away. To leave a piece of you behind but take most of you on a journey, even if it’s to an unfamiliar island, where you know no one and nothing.

Twenty minutes later, we arrive at Bule. It feels like very far away. The breeze is much cooler, the air much fresher. Even the trees are greener.

We get ourselves a boda guy (motorbike taxi) and we tell him we just want to take a ride across the village, probably stop somewhere cool for a bit, at a hotel or campsite that he knows, and come back later in the evening. He smiles. This is very easy, he says. How much does he want? We ask. He thinks it through. Twenty thousand shillings, he finally says. It’s a deal.

When the bike races up the hilly island, it feels strangely familiar. Like that forest back home where I’ve taken a walk before. Like that place on the many islands I’ve been to where clean air enters your lungs and makes all things new. I feel new. I feel at home. Our guide knows we want to see the village so he rides quite slowly and we take the freshness in every step of the way.

The guy (whose name I honestly don’t remember) takes us to a few campsites we don’t like.  Then he takes us to a magnificent hotel (given that it’s hidden away on a remote island) and we love what we see. Lake Heights Hotel, the sign reads. We ask if our guide wants to go and come back for us later but he brushes us off. He’d rather wait for us. He’d also like to rest. Who are we to say no? So we all go up to the reception and tour the place. We discover how expensive it is, given that their cheapest room is UGX 300.000 (about $85). We decide to sit in their gardens and enjoy the view because it’s absolutely irresistible. The lake, on the other side, has calmed down. We sit and bask in the final splendour of the day. There’s simply no better feeling.

A few hours later, we pay for our Coca-Cola and Pepsi and wake our guide who’s napping away in a hammock. We head back to the landing site. The sun is setting, and though it’s gorgeous, it’s getting cold, and we didn’t carry any jackets.  When we reach the landing site, we thank our guide and pay. The guy says something inaudible in Luganda. We walk on towards the boats. Then he screams at us and asks why we haven’t paid him fully. Now if you’ve used a Uganda boda before, you know what follows after a guy has accused you of not paying him fully. The other boda guys surround us. In a few seconds, it turns from a very adventurous and fun day into a feasibly dangerous night. All I’m thinking is; I need to get this German child outta here.

The first boat we approach turns us away. And so does the next, and the next. Nobody is going to transport thieves who just robbed their fellow countryman. We’ll swim to Kampala if we insist on going. By this time I’m getting very furious, and my fury is quite destructive so I decide to turn and confront our guide turned enemy. What is wrong? I ask. Didn’t we agree we’d give him Ugsh20,000? Isn’t he the one who gave us the figure? Why is he lying? Why is he saying we owe him more?

One of his colleagues jumps in and cuts me short. How can we pay only Ugsh20,000 to someone who offered us a tour of the whole island? My answer is simple. He knew the island, we didn’t. Still, he gave us a fare, we paid it. We didn’t even bargain! At this point, the guy (our guide) mentions how we delayed him at a hotel and denied him a chance to do other jobs. I look at him in the eye. He seems dead serious. Except he’s lying. We offered to pay him and let him go so he can come for us later. He refused. Doesn’t he remember that? He walks away. Things are getting tougher. The small crowd is closing in. My friend does not understand a single word. What must she be thinking? What will she think of Ugandans if she understands it? I wonder.

Quickly, I translate the fiasco to Johanna and she’s shocked. She can’t believe the guy turned on us just like that. She too wants to look him in the eye and ask him what he means. She follows him. I follow. She asks, he says he needs Ugsh45,000. I’m stunned. I was beginning to think that perhaps we can give him an extra Ugsh5,000 or something but now he shocks me with this new amount. Is he serious? Dead serious. The chairperson of some sort of association for that stage comes to us. Are we going to pay the extra money or not? I look at him, give him a summary version of the story in which his interest is as that of a pig in combs. All he wants to know is if we want to pay the 45k. Hell no! There’s no way in hell I’m paying over 100% more than I’d agreed to in the first place. Okay, he says. Nobody takes these two, he says to the boat men. The boda guys disperse, back to their business. The 2^nd last boat leaves. The last boat begins to load. It’s getting real dark. I feel cheated, I feel ganged up on.

When the last boat is about to leave, Johanna is the first to cave. Maybe we should just pay the money, she says. I look at her. I only have about 10k left on me. Fortunately she has the rest. I take the money to the guy and they let us on to the boat. I still can’t comprehend it all.

As the boat makes its way back, I’ve never felt any happier to return to Kampala, to people I know, to places I’m used to. But also, I’ve never felt so angry at a people, a place, and a journey. I have hated Bule Island, and the boda guys, and over time I keep thinking; why would anybody ever go back to Bule? But perhaps my passion for travel and for islands will overcome my fears for unfriendly people and public transport robbery. And maybe, just maybe, one day I’ll pack a bag, and head back to Bule Island. Or maybe not.